Remember ME - You Me and Dementia

December 23, 2007

TANZANIA: The Long Journey In Search Of Centenarians

DAR ES SALAAM, Tanzania (Sunday Observer), December 23, 2007:

An idea was mooted recently by our editorial team to look for centenarians, as they must have something to offer, in the form of advice, criticism or experience.

Immediately somebody told the meeting that a man who is believed to be about 126 years of age lives somewhere in Lukenge Village, Matombo Division in Morogoro District. A mission immediately set out from Dar es Salaam bound for Morogoro to seek out the man. The two-and-a-half hour drive aboard a bus was uneventful. And from there the journey continued aboard a mini-bus.

The 45-kilometre, dusty journey was equally uneventful, save for shameless traffic policemen who asked for bribes from the driver and his conductor.

``This is the order of the day and the count is that each head gets 1,000/-. So if there are three officers you part with 3,000/-,`` said the conductor who added: ``The number of buses and other trucks plying this route is relatively high, sometimes close to 50 on a single day.``

It was already dusk, when the bus reached Kiswila Village in the heart of Matombo, having stayed for hours at the Morogoro Bus terminal waiting to fill up.

On the Morogoro trail.

The stretch from Morogoro had taken three hours because of the poor state of the road, although Matombo is abundantly rich in fruits, vegetables and minerals. Local residents were very helpful, and indeed offered what was not clear. ``If you need to be successful in your mission, I advise you to go to the nearest places first. You will tire going straight to Lukenge. Start with Mlono Village,� advised Kiswila Village Chairman Deadatus Dalu.

The tricky trekking on the sloppy and slippery mountainous snakelike path started early the following morning, this time with the help of a hired hand. After a tortuous four-hour walk, always climbing the escarpments, we came to a rare threatening sight.

The Hondero Heights!

Up high were billions of tonnes of rock, with our path crossing underneath, sending waves and pangs of fear that pieces of rock might fall on us at any moment. And what with its resounding echoes!

After taking a cool drink from sprinkling water to soothe the sweating body, swelling feet and tightening muscles, we headed for Msing`ini vicinity for a five-hour experience of ascending and slight descending on the troublesome path, which included a steep climbing of the almost vertical causeway. Sometimes the four-leg-drive came into practice.

We cross from the main Mlono Village into its hamlet Ngalaghatsa where I am introduced to a beaming old man. His name is Maliki Amdala Sabu, whose age has been put at more than 100 years.

``Welcome, I knew you were coming. Have a break and we will discuss things tomorrow because I can see you have used more than the time needed to cover the short distance,`` he cheerfully shouts. ``I am surprised you have taken seven hours to reach here, the distance I cover in half the time. But what with the modern meals you are taking you town people!`` the versatile, energetic and jubilant Mzee Sabu adds almost sarcastically, teasing me into saying something. ``So what is your secret in being so active despite your age?`` I ask him, to which he replies: ``Eating habits, exercise and discipline.

There are still a few of us, if you have the opportunity go to Chikundi, Lughanza and Kilakala (Morogoro Municipality) and have a chat with them.`` ``At Chikundi there is Mzee Tadei, and you will find Yustina, wife of the late Mzee Simon Setembo, at Kilakala. Of course at Lughanza there is Wanyasila,`` he talks of the other centenarians.

As fate would have it Mfizigo River which separates Mlono and Chikundi (Lukenge) Villages was flooding due to the heavy rains from upstream Nyingwa, Lanzi and Kibungo Juu Villages, as well as Mlono Village.

As if that was not enough, on Tuesday on my way back from the village, Bibi Yustina passed away at Kilakala where she was staying at one of her grandchildren`s homes. A meeting with Wanyasila, who is crawling because of her advanced age, is under plan.

I am still nursing stiff muscles from the trip accelerated by the sharp descents mostly on the return leg. To avoid falling you have to have the discipline and concentration of an acrobat.

By Mbena Mwanatongoni
SOURCE: Sunday Observer
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